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Taking Care of Your Investment—Maintaining Your Furniture For A Lifetime

With just a little TLC, custom hardwood furniture will last a lifetime - several lifetimes, in fact. Consider a roll-top desk: a valued treasure passed on from generation to generation. Taking good care of your custom furniture ensures its longevity. It's easy and largely a matter of common sense.

Heat and Humidity, Welcome to Florida!

Did you know that up to half the weight of freshly sawn wood is water? Furniture is crafted from wood that is carefully dried, retaining just enough moisture for the furniture to properly acclimate to the relative humidity in your home. The wood in furniture continues to exchange moisture with the air, shrinking and expanding in response to changes in relative humidity.

Like your own skin, solid hardwood furniture's natural response to extremely dry air is to lose moisture and shrink a bit. The halves of an extension table may part slightly or a few tiny openings may appear on a solid wood surface. This will correct itself as the relative humidity rises, and the wood absorbs enough moisture to expand slightly.

On the other hand, if you don't have an air conditioner or dehumidifier, your home's relative humidity may get too high. Parts of your wood furniture may absorb excess moisture from the air and expand, perhaps causing drawers to stick.

Once again, this will correct itself as your home's relative humidity decreases. The furniture's quality and sturdiness are not affected by these natural changes.

Here are some ways to ensure your solid hardwood furniture's longevity

Avoid placing furniture directly in front of any heat source, such as heaters, fireplaces, ovens, etc.
Don't expose hardwood furniture to continuous direct sunlight. Draw the curtains occasionally.
Store table leaves as close as possible to the table. Keep them in an upstairs closet rather than in a damp basement, so that the table leaves are adjusting to the same relative humidity.

Rattan, Cane, and Rush Furniture

This age old style of furniture shows the true work of craftsmen. Dating back to the mid 1800's, woven furniture has many varieties of style. No matter how old the furniture, the cane or wicker needs special care. Avoid putting cane or wicker in hot, sunny rooms or near a heat source. Low-humidity heat will dry out the reed and make them brittle. Cane, Wicker, or Rattan reed should be oiled once a year with a mixture 1 to 1 ratio of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner or turpentine. Gently brush off dirt, and apply oil mixture. Lacquers or varnishes are not recommended because they seal the reed. Reed needs to breathe and absorb moisture from the air. If you wish to color your reed, don't paint it, as this will seal it also. Oil-based stains are the best way to color your reed.

Over time, your caned furniture may have a sag in it do to the cane stretching. To restore your seats original tightness, use warm water to moisten the underside of the cane, and let it dry overnight. If too much sag is left in the seat, the sharp sides of chair will cut into cane and cause cane to rip.

Wood Furniture Cleaning

Vacuuming with a dusting brush attachment gently removes dust from furniture surfaces, preventing buildup. If no vacuum cleaner, use a clean soft cloth, turning it often, or soft paper towels to pick up dust. If the finish is water resistant, a barely dampened towel or cloth will pick up dust.

The type of finish on the wood, not the type of wood, determines how the furniture care and cleaning can be done, and how to repair damage; so know what kind of finish it has. Finishes may be hard (Lacquer, Polyurethane), soft (Tung oil, Danish oil), or painted.

If you know which finish is on your wood furniture, follow the appropriate procedures for furniture maintenance. Excessive dampness, dryness, heat, or cold can damage wood furniture. Sunlight can change the color. Rubber or plastic mats should not be used unless marked safe for wood, since some may soften or stain the finish. Wipe up spills at once to prevent spots that require refinishing.

Polish not more than 3-4 times a year unless it gets heavy use, with a polish recommended for the kind of finish. Too much polish may build up a cloudy film; wipe off polish before it dries completely.

Do not mix types of polish. Oil causes wax to become gummy. Clean the furniture surface thoroughly before changing furniture care products.

Oil Finishes

The oil finish can have many names, from countries (French, Danish, Dutch, Australian), to brands (Tung, Boiled Linseed). Basically, cleaning oiled wood requires you blend 1 pint boiled linseed oil, 1 pint gum turpentine, and 6 oz. distilled white vinegar. Gum turpentine is flammable but smells like fresh wood. Wear gloves. Do not use around flame or spark; do not get on skin. Wipe the surface with a soft cloth that has been dipped in the cleaning solution. Never pour the solution directly onto the wood. Let the solution stand for a few minutes to loosen the soil; then wipe off the excess. All excess oil must be removed or it will attract dust and get gummy or tacky. To finish, rub with the grain.

Never use wax or furniture polish on oil finishes. Re-oil yearly with Boiled Linseed oil, Tung oil, or a product recommended by the manufacturer. These oils harden when exposed to air and seal the wood. Never use non-drying oils like mineral oil for wood finishes for furniture. Avoid using oil dressings or pre-oiled cloths too often or too liberally, as this will cause a hardened oil build-up. If this happens, use mineral spirits (paint thinner) to dissolve the residue.

Lacquer Finishes

To clean furniture with lacquer finish, remember lacquer is hard and glossy but is also brittle so it may be dented or chipped. Avoid hard blows. The newer synthetic lacquers are more durable, however older lacquered pieces and many imports have finishes affected by some solvents, so test every product first on an inconspicuous area.

Regularly you will want to dust with a soft, dry cloth. Never use oiled or treated cloths on lacquered finishes. To remove fingerprints and smudges, some finishes can be wiped with a damp (not wet) cloth, followed immediately by rubbing with a dry cloth, (test first in inconspicuous spot). A solvent-based furniture cleaner may be useable on many finishes but always test first. Apply liquid wax on occasion to maintain a gloss.

When a heavy cleaning is called for, use solvent-based furniture cleaners. Apply with soft cloth in one hand, and wipe at once with soft cloth in other hand, doing only a small area at a time. Oil soap may be satisfactory on some finishes but test first to be sure it is OK with finish. Protect with liquid wax or polish to maintain a gloss.

Polyurethane Finishes

Polyurethane finishes are much more resistant to moisture and spills and moderate heat than traditional varnishes, and do not need much protection. Dust regularly with a soft dry cloth and wipe dry. When needed wipe with a moist cloth, not wet. This will remove fingerprints and light soil. When dirt or grime have built up, clean with mineral spirits.

Wax or polish can build into an enemy. Remove it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Clean small areas at a time. Wipe each area with a clean cloth before going on to the next. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward, or wash in hot suds and air dry. Air-dry cloths used in cleaning to evaporate the solvent before disposing.

Painted Finishes

Painted finish furniture requires regular dusting with a damp cloth. When very soiled, wash with a solution of mild, non-abrasive detergent and warm water. Wring a cloth nearly dry and work on a small section at a time, then rinse with clear water. Dry the surface thoroughly before continuing. Water may cause paint to bubble up, discolor, and peel off. Test first on an inconspicuous area.

Waxes and polishes are usually not needed. If waxes are used, use a white creamy type on light painted items to avoid discoloration. Never use oil or any polish containing oil. Avoid oil treated cloths. Hand rubbing any polish can damage painted decoration or trim.

Painted surfaces can be carefully touched up with matching paint but the results often look patched. Where possible try to remove spots and scuff marks by washing or cleaning with household cleaners. Sanding will change the luster of the sanded spot, especially if the finish has been antiqued. If extensive damage has been done, the piece will need repainting.